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Source: Travel & Leisure -- WA Today


Buenos Aires, Argentina Though its grand boulevards and Belle Epoque-style palaces give Buenos Aires a genteel air, underneath lies an unmistakably bohemian heart. Nowhere is this more apparent than in up-and-coming San Telmo, famous for its Sunday antiques market.

Along the narrow cobblestone streets, faded mansions have been transformed into hotels, such as the sweet Cocker (458 Juan de Garay;; doubles from $155) and the loft-style Moreno Buenos Aires (376 Moreno;; doubles from $160).

Restaurants run the gamut from the innovative La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar (865 Bolivar; +54 11 4361 4709; tapas for two $125), where chef Alejandro Digilio plays with foams and candied lacquering in his pint-size space, to old-school parrillas (grills) like Desnivel (858 Defensa; +54 11 4300 9081; dinner for two $38). This is prime tango territory and if you can't make a show at the sultry Bar Sur (299 Estados Unidos; +54 11 4362 6086), catch a mini-performance in the windows of one of San Telmo's many dance schools.

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